Thailand with children

Where to base yourselves

The single most important decision with children is to move less. One base for a week beats three bases in seven days by a wide margin, and it is the difference between a holiday and a logistics exercise.

• Hua Hin is the easiest of all — three hours from Bangkok, shallow calm water, a real town, and mainland reliability in the shoulder season.
• Phuket has the widest range: the northern beaches of Bang Tao and Nai Yang are quiet and shallow, with resorts built around families.
• Koh Samui and Koh Lanta both work well, with shallow bays and enough infrastructure for a comfortable stay.
• Chiang Mai is good with older children — elephants, temples, markets — but the burning season from February to April is a genuine reason to avoid it.

Heat, sun and the shape of a day

The heat is the constraint that shapes everything else. Between roughly 11am and 3pm the sun is at its most punishing, and children will wilt long before adults do.

Plan the day in two halves: out early, back to a pool or an air-conditioned room over the middle of the day, and out again in the late afternoon. This is how Thai families live, and it is the only way the day works.

Sun protection matters more than at home. High-factor sunscreen, hats, and rash guards for swimming. Reapply after every swim — the water washes it off far faster than you expect.

Food and water

Children generally take to Thai food well if you start mild: rice, grilled chicken, noodle soups, fried rice, mango and sticky rice, and the ubiquitous roti pancakes. Most tourist restaurants will cook a plain version of anything on request.

Bottled water throughout, for drinking and for brushing teeth with small children. Ice in commercial drinks is generally fine.

The usual traveller caution applies more strongly to children: eat where it is busy, eat what is cooked to order, and be careful with cut fruit from stalls. Bring oral rehydration sachets — they are the single most useful thing in the medical kit.

Getting around with children

This is the weakest part of travelling in Thailand with a family, and it needs honest planning.

• Car seats are not standard in taxis, minivans or private transfers, and are rarely available on request. If you need one, you generally have to bring it.
• Long minivan journeys on winding roads are unpleasant for adults and worse for children — the road to Pai being the obvious example.
• Domestic flights are short and frequent, which makes them the kindest option for longer legs.
• Boats vary enormously. Speedboats are fast and rough; ferries are slower and much easier with small children.
• Tuk-tuks and songthaews have no belts or sides. They are part of the experience and a real risk at the same time.

Health and what to avoid

Medical care in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phuket and Samui is good, with international-standard private hospitals that will see you quickly. On smaller islands it is basic, and a serious problem means a transfer to the mainland.

Travel insurance that covers children, medical evacuation and — importantly — scooter accidents is not optional. Check the small print about what is excluded.

Avoid the obvious: the party beaches and Full Moon Party dates, long tailboat rides with very small children, and any temple visit in the middle of the day. And be careful with monkeys, which bite when fed and carry rabies.

Vaccinations should be discussed with a travel clinic well in advance. Malaria prophylaxis is generally not needed for the main tourist areas but may be for the border regions.