Thailand: where to go and when

Three seasons, and what each one actually means

Thailand is tropical, so the useful question is not "is it hot" — it always is — but which monsoon is running where you are going.

• November to February — cool and dry. The most comfortable weather of the year and, predictably, the busiest and most expensive stretch. Book early for the islands.
• March to May — hot. Temperatures push past 35°C and the air is sticky. Songkran, the Thai New Year water festival, falls on 13–15 April and is worth planning around, either for it or away from it.
• June to October — the southwest monsoon. Rain usually arrives in heavy bursts rather than all-day drizzle, and the Andaman coast (Phuket, Krabi, Phi Phi) takes the worst of it. Some island boat services run reduced schedules.

The Gulf coast runs on a different clock: Koh Samui, Koh Phangan and Koh Tao are wettest between October and December, when the Andaman side is drying out. That single fact decides a lot of itineraries.

The regions, and who each one suits

Most first trips combine two or three of these. Trying to do all of them in two weeks means spending it in airports.

• Bangkok and the central plain — the capital, plus the old capitals of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai. Temples, food and markets; the best place to start.
• The Andaman coast — Phuket, Krabi, Koh Phi Phi, Koh Lanta and Phang Nga Bay. Limestone cliffs, clear water and the postcard islands.
• The Gulf coast — Pattaya, Koh Samui, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao. Easier to reach from Bangkok, gentler water, better diving.
• The north — Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and the mountains along the Myanmar and Laos borders. Cooler, slower, temple-heavy, and the base for hill-tribe country and elephant sanctuaries.
• Isan — the northeast, along the Mekong. Very few foreign visitors, excellent food, and the most traditional version of the country.

Getting between them

Domestic aviation is the reason a two-week trip can cover a lot of ground. Budget carriers fly constantly between the main cities and the island airports, and fares booked ahead are usually modest.

• Bangkok has two airports — Suvarnabhumi (BKK) and the older Don Mueang (DMK) — and they are 30 km apart. Check which one your flight actually uses before booking a connection.
• Overnight sleeper trains run from Bangkok to Chiang Mai and to the south. Book a berth in advance; they sell out.
• Long-distance buses and minivans are cheap and cover routes the trains do not, but the minivans have a reputation for speed that is worth taking seriously.
• Island transfers are by ferry or speedboat, and the last leg is often a longtail from the pier to the beach itself.

Money and practicalities

The currency is the Thai baht. Cards are accepted in hotels, malls and larger restaurants; markets, small restaurants, taxis and island shops are still cash.

• ATMs are everywhere and charge a flat withdrawal fee, so taking out larger amounts less often costs less.
• Electricity is 220V at 50Hz with type A, B and C sockets — a mixed standard, so a universal adapter is the safe choice.
• A local SIM or eSIM is cheap and gives you a Thai number, which makes booking and deliveries much easier.
• Drinking water: bottled or refilled from a station. Tap water is not for drinking.
• Visa rules depend on your nationality and are adjusted periodically. Check your own government's current advice and the Thai embassy before booking, rather than relying on a blog.

Etiquette worth knowing

Thai society is relaxed about most things and specific about a few. Getting these right changes how you are treated.

• Temples are active places of worship. Cover shoulders and knees, remove shoes before entering a hall, and do not turn your back to a Buddha image for a photograph.
• Do not touch anyone on the head, and do not point at people with your feet.
• The monarchy is protected by law, and that law is enforced. Treat the subject with care.
• Wai — palms together — is the greeting, but it is not expected from visitors. A smile works.
• Dress modestly outside the tourist beaches. It is noticed.