Ayutthaya

What it was

Founded in 1350, Ayutthaya was the Siamese capital for 417 years and, at its height, a trading city of extraordinary wealth — the accounts left by foreign visitors describe a place that rivalled the great cities of Europe.

In 1767 the Burmese army sacked it, burned it and left it in ruins. The city was never rebuilt on the same site, and the capital moved to what is now Bangkok.

The old city sits on an island where three rivers meet. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991.

The ruins worth your time

There are dozens of sites. These are the ones that repay the heat and the walking.

• Wat Mahathat — the most photographed spot in Ayutthaya, for the Buddha head held in the roots of a tree.
• Wat Phra Si Sanphet — the royal temple, three restored chedis in a row, and the defining image of the city.
• Wat Chaiwatthanaram, on the far bank of the river — the most impressive silhouette, best at sunset.
• Wat Ratchaburana, with its crypt and restored murals, next to Wat Mahathat.
• Wat Lokayasutharam, for the enormous reclining Buddha outdoors.

Getting around the ruins

The sites are spread across the island and the surrounding area, and it is hot. Bicycles can be rented near the main sites and are the traditional way to do it; tuk-tuks cover the ground faster and can be hired by the hour.

A boat trip around the island is a good half-day and a much cooler way to see the riverside temples.

Start early. There is very little shade at the ruins and the middle of the day is punishing.

Day trip or overnight?

It is about 80 km north of Bangkok — roughly an hour and a half by road, or a little more by train. That makes a day trip perfectly possible, and it is how most people see it.

Staying one night changes the experience: you get the early morning and the late afternoon at the ruins, when the light is better and the coach parties have gone. If heritage is the reason for your trip, the overnight is worth it.