Bangkok

What to see

The historic core on Rattanakosin Island holds the heaviest concentration of sights, and it is worth giving it a full day rather than an afternoon.

• The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew — the royal compound and the Emerald Buddha. Dress code is enforced, and it is strict.
• Wat Pho, next door, home of the reclining Buddha and the traditional massage school.
• Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, on the far bank — best at sunset, reached by a short cross-river ferry.
• Jim Thompson House, a calm teak compound and a good counterweight to the temples.
• Chatuchak Weekend Market — thousands of stalls; go early, go with a plan, and expect heat.
• A longtail boat through the Thonburi khlongs, for the version of Bangkok that used to be canals all the way through.

Getting around

Bangkok has three separate rail systems and a river; using them is how you avoid the traffic entirely.

• The BTS Skytrain and the MRT underground cover the modern city and connect at several stations. They are air-conditioned, fast and cheap.
• The Chao Phraya Express Boat is the quickest way along the river and the most pleasant way to reach the temples. The orange flag line is the workhorse.
• Taxis should use the meter. If the driver refuses, get out and take the next one — this is normal and not rude.
• Grab works well and removes the negotiation. Motorbike taxis are fast and genuinely risky; decide deliberately.

When to go

November to February is the comfortable window. The rest of the year is hot, and September and October bring the heaviest rain of the year to the city.

Bangkok is a year-round city — the rain is inconvenient rather than trip-ending — but if the city is one stop on a longer trip, put it at the start of a cool-season itinerary.

Worth knowing

Both international airports serve the city: Suvarnabhumi (BKK) and Don Mueang (DMK), 30 km apart. Confirm which one before you book a domestic connection.

Airport rail links run from both, though Don Mueang's connection to the centre is slower. Allow generous time in the evening peak.

The old capital of Ayutthaya is a straightforward day trip north and worth more than a half-day.